Venice with the children

I knew that I wanted to take the girls to Venice one day so they could experience this amazing city. I’d held off booking a trip as I didn’t think the younger two would fully appreciate it and I thought the walking would be too much. Sofia being eight and Maria and Gabriella a few months short of their sixth birthday. It was a great time of year to go (more about that in the Venice top tips below) and they were definitely old enough as they’ve been raving about it ever since.

Venice isn’t actually geared up specifically for children in the way that some cities are (here are some that definitely are) with special child-centric activities and cookie cutter childrens’ menus. However, like in most parts of Italy, shops, restaurants, bars etc bend over backwards for their younger patrons.

Accommodation

I looked at hotels, but family suites for five were very expensive and to be honest I wanted the children in a separate bedroom (though not a separate room in a hotel) for a bit of peace We managed to find an ideal place on Airbnb, which was reasonably priced and literally a minute’s walk from the famous Rialto Fish Market and three minutes from the Rialto Bridge. It was right in the centre but tucked away down a little street so nice and quiet at night.

Where we went and what we did

We were staying in the San Polo district. It is one of the smallest districts of Venice and away from the busy Rialto there are plenty of quieter back streets to explore and many very nice squares. Of course we went to the Rialto Bridge – and visited souvenir shops there so the girls could get a Venetian mask – and visited the fish market. However, we also went to Campo Frari (Frari square) and saw the lovely Gothic church Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari and just generally wandered around taking in the sights.

San Marco 

This is probably the most well known district of Venice and famed for Saint Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco) and the Basilica San Marco (the cathedral). It was pretty busy, but being May, not as busy as it can be. We went into the Basilica and the girls all loved it with its huge expanse of shiny gold and ornate decoration; they especially loved it when we climbed up to the balcony. We were unashamedly touristy and visited Cafe Florian on the square. It is far, far more expensive than going to a bar down a neighbouring street, but hey, we had a drink on St. Mark’s square and we were on holiday. Then we did that other ultimate tourist in Venice thing and took a lovely Gondola ride, which we all loved. OK, we had two Gondola rides by the end of the holiday.

We didn’t go up the bell tower in St. Mark’s as the queues were too long. However, we visited the island of San Giorgio Maggiore (a short boat ride from St. Mark’s Square) and went up the bell tower of the church. We didn’t have to queue and the views were stunning though my photos aren’t the best!

Cannaregio

We visited the Cannaregio district to see the Venetian Ghetto (the first ghetto), the area of Venice where all Jews were once forced to live. This was a completely different side to Venice, but even away from the ghetto area itself and the tourist area near the train statin, Cannaregio had a very different vibe with many more locals. Here we encountered the wonderful Vino Vero one of my favourite bacari (bars). More details later on!

Walk at dusk along the Cannaregio canal; away from the crowds

Venetian Arsenal (quay Arsenale)

Nowadays it’s a naval base, but founded in 1104 it was once the largest shipyard in the world. There are armouries and maritime museums to visit, but time got the better of us. It’s a much quieter part of Venice and very nice for a stroll. Arsenale is also the epicentre of the Venice Biennale, a very large international art exhibition that is held every two years. We managed to visit one exhibition. However, if we weren’t with the children we’d have visited more.

Murano and Burano

The island of Murano is famous for its glass blowing workshops and is a great excursion to go on. It’s really easy to get to with lots of water buses from various stops; travel time is between 10 and 30 minutes depending on which you take. We had a lovely wander around and a look in at some of the enticing shops. When I asked, one of the shops was happy to recommended a family-run glass blowing factory. It was brilliant, not expensive at all (children were free) and the girls were fascinated. We saw the whole process – explained in English – of making a vase and then the very skilful demonstrator made a child-pleasing horse.

After lunch in Murano, we headed to the island of Burano, which was quite a bit further out, but still very easy to do in a day combined with Murano. Burano is a very quaint fishing village, famed for its lace production. It is cited as one of the most colourful towns in the world with each house painted in a contrasting vivid hue. It is very different to the rest of Venice and really pretty.

Beach day

After a lot of sightseeing, we had a beach day. We got a water bus (vaporetto) from the main island to the Venice Lido (where the Venice Film Festival takes place), which took less than 30 minutes. The Lido is a long skinny, sandy island that sits between the lagoon and the Adriatic sea. It had good facilities and umbrella and lounger hire wasn’t extortionate. It was quite strange to encounter roads, cars and buses again and was a lot more like mainland Italy than Venice. A beach day really broke up our trip nicely.

Food & Drink in Venice

Even if there isn’t a specific childrens’ menu there are lots of eating options. Although Venice is famed for its fish and seafood and has a number of fantastic regional specialities, you’re never too far away from pizza and more familiar pasta dishes. Calamari and spaghetti with clams (other favourites of the kids) are in plentiful supply.

Even in more upmarket places, meat and poultry can be simply cooked and they don’t mind making an off menu pasta with a simple sauce.

We found Trattoria Alla Madonna in San Polo district great for the family. It’s a traditional fish restaurant. However, there was plenty on the menu for the kids and familiar favourites as well as many authentic Venetian dishes; things such as baccala’ mantecato con polenta (puree of dried code with polenta), cuttle fish in black squid ink and raw prawns.

We avoided the Michelin-starred places that we’d hit as a couple. However, for a real culinary and wine treat in an elegant but approachable venue Chat Qui Rit is fantastic. Despite the name this place is 100% Italian. Really high end food and a wine list that made me practically weep with joy. We asked for spaghetti with a plain tomato sauce for the kids and they very happily obliged.

Then there were the cicchetti: traditional little delicacies of the area which can be described as Venetian tapas; lovely picky bits that are served with a small glass of wine in a bacaro (small bar).

The girls acquired a love of anchovies, octopus carpaccio and soft shell crabs! My husband and I filled our boots with Venetian speciality Sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines).

Bars in Venice 

Our two favourite bacari were completely contrasting. Vino Vero in the Cannaregio district, just by the Jewish Ghetto, is modern and far from the madding crowd. It serves really varied wines and has a very extensive list. It also serves wonderful cicchtetti and unusually for a bacaro has outside seating next to a very peaceful part of the Cannaregio canal. Cantina do Mori in the San Polo district dates back to 1462 and claims to be the oldest bacaro in Venice. It is very traditional in style, charismatic and has just five seats; bacari are not places for lounging too long – think bar crawl with lovely eats. Both are popular with locals.

No trip to Venice would be complete without Prosecco and Spritz (Spritz by the way can be made with Campari and Select as well as Aperol, which both hail from the area). Pinot Grigio also comes from the area, but you can get really nice ones, not the insipid ones that we often get in the UK. I also rekindled my love of Soave another Veneto product.

Childrens’ highlights

I asked the girls what their favourite bit of the trip was. Here are some of their responses: Walking around the ‘secret’ passageways, riding on a Gondola, food and eating, the big church with gold (Saint Mark’s Basilica), the lovely buildings, the water buses, the water taxi, the bell tower, buying masks, the beach…

Venice top tips

• • Visit in April, May, early June, September, early October – This isn’t because the canals smell (they don’t), it’s just because it gets very hot and crowded

• • Wear in shoes you’ll be doing a lot of walking

• • Take a cover up – There’re so many beautiful churches to visit. However, bare shoulders can’t be on show and shorts can’t be short, short

• • Travel cards – Buy a tourist travel card. Anyone over the age of six has to pay full price (with the exception of wheelchair users and their carers). We made the mistake of buying daily for a six night stay – costly! TripAdvisor has a very good piece on tourist pass options

• • Check opening days/times – attractions, restaurants and shops often close on random days of the week. Check venues beforehand to avoid disappointment

• • Water taxi – it was €120 for the five of us to get a water taxi from Marco Polo airport to the Rialto Bridge. It was expensive, but took a fraction of the time and meant we didn’t have to struggle on public transport with our luggage. Also it’s a fantastic experience – you feel like you’re on the set of a Bond film

• • Views over Venice – Instead of queueing for the bell tower in busy St. Mark’s Square, avoid the crowds and go to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. The panoramic views from the top of the bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore church are spectacular

• • Take insect repellent for the evenings – Mosquitos are out in spring and summer

• • Murano –  You’ll be greeted by people selling visits to various glass factories as soon as you step off the boat. Don’t go to these as they can be tourist traps. There are plenty of authentic family run ones so just do a little research

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I started flicking through to see if there were any ideas that could be adapted for a thirty-somethings girls’ night in.   I reckon there are…

Girls’ night in ideas

Book’s version: Movie Star Punch

• Lemonade
• Fresh orange juice
• Strawberries
• Mint leaves
• Lemon slices

My version: Negroni Punch 

I love a classic Negroni aperitif – one part gin, one part vermouth, one part Campari (a bit of orange peel as a garnish) – but this punch sounds like a great, longer drink alternative.

Book’s version: Plait perfection 

A step-by-step guide to creating a French and fishtail plait.

My version: I nearly always wear my hair down and sometimes run straighteners through it if it looks really bad of a morning. I commented that a friend’s hair always looks nice (not over the top, just casually styled). She said it was really quick and easy to do – all part of the blow-dry apparently. She said we should organise a girls’ night in and she’d show me and others how. I want to do this.

Book’s version: Get swishing

“Swishing is when you swap clothes you no longer want with your friends.”

This would work on the school run

My version: Much as I would actually love to do this, the fact that I’m 5ft nothing is slightly limiting. However, accessories would be good. I don’t accessorise much at all so this could provide the opportunity!

Book’s version: Fun Times 

A pure and simple games night with the girls, with the suggestion of everyone bringing around their favourite board game to play.

My version: Who’s in the Bag? (always great comedy value) with plenty of Prosecco followed by the Top Gun drinking game. Also, I’d take round the surprise hit of 2023/2024 Chicken vs Hotdog. It’s a silly game, but so much fun; it went down a storm at the New Year’s Eve party!

Book’s version: Movie Night 

The suggestion is a ‘movie marathon’.

My version: Not sure I’d have the attention span for back-to-back films in one night. However, I’d definitely be up for a Sex and the City, Father Ted, The Sopranos or Cold Feet marathon.

Sofia is already asking if she can buy this book. I can really see the appeal. Alongside the inspiration for different themed nights in are recipes, craft ideas, quizzes (think Cosmopolitan mag quizzes but more age-appropriate), games and activities. I now really want to organise a girls’ night in.

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I’m no stranger to a Wetherspoons pub or Michelin-starred dining. Both have their place. However, for me the holy grail is a smart pub that serves great food in nice surroundings. Oh yes, it also needs to be relaxed and  family-friendly.

The Old Plough

On New Year’s Day we decided we were in need of a walk. My husband Matt suggested Norbury Park in Surrey and we headed out. We couldn’t find it and then the girls started moaning that they were hungry.  I spotted a pub – The Old Plough – and we swiftly did a U turn.

Bar menu at The Old Plough

The Old Plough has a real charm but isn’t twee. It was packed and no tables were available in the restaurant until 3pm. We were invited to wait at the bar in case a table became available in the bar area where we’d be able to have the full restaurant menu. We never made it to a table and instead took root at the bar and ordered bar snacks.

The bar area was very cosy and featured armchairs and a fire. However, we were more than happy perched on bar stools (with the girls looking worryingly at ease). We went for cocktail sausages with a mustard and honey glaze, nachos and calamari. All three of these can be hit and miss in a pub and have a tendency to be rather heavy and greasy. However, the sausages were really great quality with a perfectly balanced glaze, the calamari had lovely light, crisp batter and the nachos weren’t claggy with cheese; they were actually light with the accompanying salsas really fresh. We were very impressed and decided that we’d have to sample the full menu very soon. We headed off for our walk but never did find Norbury Park.

The Old Plough’s restaurant menu

Children’s food and starters

Fast forward a week and with my visiting mother- and father-in-law, we returned; this time with a reservation. We recognised a few people there from last time so knew that it must be popular with locals (usually a good sign). We were immediately escorted to our table. The restaurant wasn’t very busy at that time, but within the hour was packed out.

The service was attentive but not overbearing and the menu was quite varied and extensive without trying to do everything. We ordered beef burgers in buns with home cut chips for two of our daughters and sausages, chips and peas for the other. The waitress immediately asked if we wanted the children’s food to come out with the adult starters.

Sausages and burgers can vary tremendously on quality. These were top-notch and although I didn’t try the chips I was told they were delicious and crispy. The portions were very large yet reasonably priced. I was the only one drinking and had a glass of Prosecco to start. Matt and I had starters of bang bang peanut satay chicken with crunchy oriental vegetable salad (£7.50) and crispy fried sesame king prawns with wasabi and lime mayonnaise (£7.50). Both were very tasty. Again the batter for the prawns was crispy and light. The salad with the prawns was also oriental in style, very fresh and crunchy.

Mains

My mother-in-law, mindful that we were having a big curry in the evening, went for a lighter bite of steak, mustard mayonnaise, roasted onions, tomato and rocket served on ciabatta (£7.95). This came served with a choice of soup, salad or home cut chips. They omitted the onions at her request without problem. I’m sure she’d be the first to admit that she can be quite fussy, but it went down very well, with the only criticism being that it was too large a portion to finish!

My father-in-law, due to illness, doesn’t have a huge appetite and is rather limited on what he fancies eating. He plumped for a children’s portion of fish and chips. He really enjoyed it and it was great to see him eating well. The batter was very nice and crisp and the chips had already had the seal of approval.

Children’s portion of fish and chips (with peas)

Matt and I, not so mindful about eating big again for dinner went for one of the specials: Beef, mushroom and blue cheese pastry pie accompanied with mash, honey-glazed carrots and red cabbage (£13.95). The pie was delicious and the mash was wonderfully smooth and creamy. I’m rather a vegetable dodger and cooked carrots are far from a favourite of mine. However, they weren’t soft, soggy and flavourless, instead having a nice bite to them and a lovely sweetness (but not too sweet) courtesy of the glaze. They served plenty of wines by the glass. They also had a list of specials, off which I ordered a very nice and decently-priced Nero d’Avola.

My steak, mushroom and blue cheese pie

Dessert and afters

I was rather full so bypassed dessert, but my in-laws shared a pistachio cheesecake with greek yoghurt, honey and raspberries (£5.95). The feedback was that it was very tasty, but slightly over-baked. They also had coffees, which they said were very good. Whilst I did a toilet run with the kids, Matt ordered me a Brandy Alexander!?! Although part of the after dinner cocktail menu, it went down amazingly well at lunch. Heavy on the brandy – delicious!

We all thoroughly enjoyed our visit and I’m looking forward to returning in the warmer months so we can experience some al fresco dining (and perhaps combine with a visit to nearby Wisley Gardens) but in the meantime would like to go back to try out the evening menu.

A few more details:

• High chairs
• Baby change
• Friendly dogs welcome in the bar and garden (on a lead)
• Childrens’ menu
• Newspapers
• WiFi
• Car park
• Close to Cobham and Stoke d’Abernon station (Waterloo line)

Whilst well-behaved children are very welcome at The Old Plough, they are only allowed in the restaurant until 8pm and in the pub area until 7pm. Also, those expecting packs of colouring books and crayons on arrival for the kids will be disappointed. I personally like that differentiation.

You might also be interested in: Date Night at Dans le Noir?

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Summer activities

Park and garden summer activities 

Make sure you’ve got a few inexpensive outdoor toys etc up your sleeve. The big supermarkets stock a wide range of good value items. A few that are popular in this house:

• • Bubbles/bubble wands
  • Football
  • Badminton set
  • Skittles set
  • Quoits
  • Cricket set

National Trust membership

I bang on about this quite a lot. However, it is so cost-effective when compared to other days out. Whether heading for somewhere new or visiting an old favourite, my girls love it. There’s always a new trail or activity to do even for seasoned visitors and they put on a lot of summer activities.

National Trust ahoy!

Picnics

There’s something about a variety of cold picky foods eaten from the comfort of a picnic rug that seems to pique the appetite of the kids. They can’t eat enough and never get bored of them. Be warned though, picnics aren’t usually an easy meal option. I always find they can take a while to prepare. If I’m not driving I add in a bottle of Prosecco. Holidays are for mums and dads too Wisley Gardens are a favourite place of ours for picnics.

The Pub

Check out your local family-friendly pubs. It’s a win win really. Many have great outdoor stuff for the kids; one of my locals – The Woodman – has a massive sandpit and outdoor games. Others in the area have climbing frames etc. Here’s a great list for those living in Surrey.

Paddling pools and water features 

Lots of parks have paddling pools and water features. Check out your local ones as water is always a massive hit. We recently headed to Tooting Bec Lido in South West London and had a great time (children under five go free). Also pay a visit to the local duck pond; there’s usually a cafe nearby.

Hidden gems

Do a bit of research to see if there are any attractions/hidden gems near you. I recently discovered that we have beautiful lavender fields on our doorstep. We’ve now visited three times in the space of five weeks!

Dens and gazebos 

In the height of summer our garden is a suntrap all day long, which isn’t as good as it sounds. Last year, we were in desperate need of shade so I bought a £20 gazebo from Homebase along with a few cheapo cushions. Old toys get a new lease of life if played with underneath the gazebo and eating there sat on cushions on the floor is ‘like camping.’ Last year, the girls even enjoyed just relaxing under it with a drink (and they never relax). Alternatively, you can just make a den with sheets and table clothes.

H2O

From running in and out of a sprinkler and playing with water pistols to aqua tents, paddling pools and simply floating things in it and tipping it from one container to another, water never fails. Get them cleaning the car, watering the plants and generally cleaning stuff. If it involves using a hose they’ll be all over it. Try not to completely waste it though. One of my friends sings the praises of the Crazy Daisy. I’m yet to purchase one, but it’s a matter of time…

Outdoor messy play

• • • Footprint pictures with paint
    • Chalk pictures on the patio.
    • Sand play – Great fun and brilliant for aiding your toddler’s development. Make sure you invest in the slightly more expensive play sand. You can get 10kg for £3 at Sainsbury’s. It’s totally safe and doesn’t completely stain clothes (I’ve heard some horror stories about builders’ sand!).

Cooling off  

Invest in some ice-lolly moulds. They’re cheap as chips, toddlers, pre-schoolers and older children love making them and eating them, they’ll be a lot healthier than shop-bought ones (we do pure fruit juice watered down a little) and you’ll save an absolute fortune in the course of the summer!

Please share any of your summer activities below and don’t forget to check out Diary of 43 Days of School Holidays and my Summer Holiday Challenges for more inspiration.

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